As for tuning your car before the race I just write down the most successful setup on a piece of paper and use it as a guideline for the next time I am on the same track. I would go for tire wear and save money on the other things unless you are loaded and don´t care, then just take the best.Ĩ. I know "tire wear" is essential but after doing some testing "fuel efficiency" doesn´t seem to provide enough of a benifit. Chassis design is tricky, after 300 hours I still don´t have all the clues needed. Lots of fuel and highest engine mode is usually a bad idea, dont do that.ħ. I like to have a little spare fuel for cold days though as mentioned earlier. Push the engines/tires in the last 2-3 laps before a pitstop to even out the score and hopefully end on 25%-0 fuel as you pit. If you don´t bother micromanaging like me in the race second highest engine with 2 extra laps of fuel for a 10 lap run is a general "okay", keep an eye on tire heat and watch it all unfold as your "plan" either gets destroyed or you make it to the podium. A racer with 9-10 laps of fuel, medium tires and engines on medium may be a lot faster than some one in the same situation pushing his engines with 20 laps of fuel.Ħ. know how many laps you are going to race, if tire wear is high your medium tires may not last the 14 laps it states, they may only last 9-10, even less if you keep pushing them. As for fuel I always have too much, too much means 2-3 laps of after a race, not 10. Before the race it´s important to read the description of the track, especially weather and tire wear. You will need to sack one, this bad "perk" lasts 52 weeks.ĥ. happened to me 3 times and I have no good advice here. It can happen that two drivers simultaniously decide they won´t sign a new contract while each is the team, bad luck. Even if you have defined their roles well, my suggestion is to take the morale hit. it´s worse than my mother´s nitting club. Motorsport manager is a chickenfarm when it comes to drivers, they often fight, complain about each other, want to get rid of the mechanics or the reserve driver. If one of your drivers has a mechanic with the perk "nurse" your two first races should be a cakewalk, only the engine/gearbox need a bit of fixing prior to racing the first race 55-60, the driver will be able to use second highest engine power throughout the race and win.Ĥ. The tricky part is never to get greedy and let the AI run itself against the wall, this works in the lowers tiers more than in the best leagues, the best teams have fast car repairs early on. You don´t need to repair as soon as the "wrench" shows, the can go 2-3 extra laps without problems. I usually go for medium tires if I can, give them fuel for the exact amount of laps I think they can race on a medium tire and start my repairs at about 2/3 of the race. The tricky part is to actually drink coffee, set engines and tires to medium and watch it all unfold. The first and second race of season 2 and onwards will provide you with a solid buffer if your cars dont crash. I usually don´t bother with spoilers, something in the car will need repairs anyway.ģ. Then you need to focus on brakes and suspension, get those into the 50s and depending on your factory you may wish to improve the above parts to low 60s. Before the first race of the season you should get the engines/gearbox reliability to 55-60. Then you have a little room of time to decide whether to continue designing and improving depending on economy or use that time to increase performance on your parts to max.īefore the last two races I usually have 2-3 very illegal parts ready where reliability isn´t an issue, they are parts for the next season where I have gone with "max" choices in parts, these need to have their performance maxed and it can take time, so that´s what I do.Ģ. Design new parts all the time for the first 2/3 of the season thus improving old ones, engines are what give you the most but they are also the most expensive. After 300 hours of Motorsport Manager I decided to share some of my wisdom with you guys.ġ.
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